THE STAND-OUTS AT NYFW: Jenny Packham, Reem Acra, Victoria Beckham, Theyskens' Theory and Rodarte RTW.
Fall Ready-to-wear collections come at a time when all we want to think about is when we can start peeling OFF the layers. However, with these four particular collections debuting this week in New York, it is difficult not to covet the darker hues and textured, thicker pieces that we look to when the temperature begins to drop at the end of September. My pics for stand-out collections are below.
Jenny Packham F/W 2012-13
I can't help but to ponder elegant, feminine glamour when I think of a classic Jenny Packham dress- one of the Duchess' preferred ateliers. My picks here are red-carpet worthy and each dress boasts detailing of beads or lace with a specific point of focus: on the shoulders and neckline (first dress), the deep-v and bust-line of the sheer black column dress and finally, the lace sleeves and satin paneling of the thighs on the steel grey dress- focus here on long limbs. (Third dress pictured). The collection was very Jenny Packham, but with a darker edge- bolder makeup and a less ethereal palate. Packham explains her influence; "It was all based on film noir, which is a genre of Hollywood films in the 1940s. Very low budget, contrast color, very amazing femme fatales, a dangerous and enticing woman."
Reem Acra RTW F/W 2012-13
Reem Acra- Rockstar glam was in order this week at the Lincoln Centre.The first two picks call to mind the Young Hollywood set- The Blake Lively's and their perfect pins in the gold mini, or the Rihannas pouring themselves into the bold cut-out, showcasing rock-hard abdominals. Loving the high-neck lace top- a conservative cut in height but with a nod to cheeky see-through. I'm obsessed with the sequined cigarette pants. Other pieces were art-deco inspired, in black or gold and there were quite a few dropped waists on some of the minis. Grammy-worthy gowns a few days too late.
Victoria Beckham RTW F/W 2012-13
Again- the coat is one of the best pieces of the show. I'm in love with the deep wine mulberry hue. The asymmetrical collar, exposed zippers as structured detailing and overall overcoat shape to VB's taste for impeccable tailoring and serious simplicity. Can we talk about the practicality? Rarely do we classify Mrs. 6 1/4 inch Lady Daf by Louboutin-wearing Victoria as practical, however I see this coat on the back of a (albeit very fashionable) commuter about town. Most pieces were military-influenced with buttons, epaulets and army-inspired colour palates of greens, browns and blues. (A departure from the youthful, upbeat cat-patterned pieces from her S/S 2012 collection). The mainstays of VB collections are the clean-lines and the simple sexiness of figure-hugging frocks fit for the svelte. How adorable that she created a roomy handbag after her daughter Harper?!
Theyskens' Theory RTW F/W 2012-13
Belgian-born Olivier's influences come from stints at Rochas, Nina Ricci and since he joined forces with New York label Theory, he has seen significant success and hype with his cool-kid blazers and pants that hint at an underlying sophistication the wearer couldn't escape if she tried. The blazers were there, as was the edge of leather and the sexy-sheer he is renowned for. The one thing front-rowers went gaga for? The pants. Slouchy, sexy and off the hip- stuffed casually, effortlessly into boots without diminishing the cool factor.
Rodarte RTW F/W 2012-13
I mean these coats are serious. The structure and exposed shearling are on trend and look incredibly cozy for cooler temps. I am especially loving the shearling on the cuffs of the two black jackets. The powder blue belted coat displays oversized pocket flaps on either side, further accentuating the length of the coat's silhouette. So elegant. The boots harkened Victorian lace-ups but incorporated industrial materials such as studs with exposed seems and plastic heels full of layers of sand. One of the more creative accessories that I have seen, using unexpected materials this NYFW. Two tid-bits: George Lucas a la Star Wars was front row centre and counts himself as one of the Mulleavy sisters' biggest fans. Laura and Kate were inspired by the multi-layered history of Australia.